Some live shots of the new Type 20 and Type XX
I had the chance to not only handle the two new watches but also take a few photos when I visited Wempe in Hamburg today.
As you all know light conditions in a showroom are not favorable for taking photos, so those aren’t great but hopefully give you an idea of the two watches and some of their details.
Let me add my very personal impressions of these two. First, the 42mm wear comparatively small due to the rather short lugs, which are executed very beautifully.
The straps are well done, have a good feel to them, and the tang buckle is unique and nicely executed.
Talking about the quality impression: the cases, the bezels, the crowns, the dials and hands show the immaculate execution you would rightfully expect from Breguet.
The one component that was a bit of a downer to me is the crystal. I have loved the superdomed crystal of the 3800 and 3820 and I would have hoped for a more extrovert crystal shape with these vintage inspired new models.
The two timepieces are very distinct from each other, so there’s a real choice.
The movement I could not inspect with a loupe, so nothing to say here.
The design of the dial and particularly the date placement has already been discussed passionately, so I will not go there. All I can say is that the date is as obvious in reality as in the press photos.
Hope you liked these first mediocre live impressions.
Cheers
Henrik
As you all know light conditions in a showroom are not favorable for taking photos, so those aren’t great but hopefully give you an idea of the two watches and some of their details.
Let me add my very personal impressions of these two. First, the 42mm wear comparatively small due to the rather short lugs, which are executed very beautifully.
The straps are well done, have a good feel to them, and the tang buckle is unique and nicely executed.
Talking about the quality impression: the cases, the bezels, the crowns, the dials and hands show the immaculate execution you would rightfully expect from Breguet.
The one component that was a bit of a downer to me is the crystal. I have loved the superdomed crystal of the 3800 and 3820 and I would have hoped for a more extrovert crystal shape with these vintage inspired new models.
The two timepieces are very distinct from each other, so there’s a real choice.
The movement I could not inspect with a loupe, so nothing to say here.
The design of the dial and particularly the date placement has already been discussed passionately, so I will not go there. All I can say is that the date is as obvious in reality as in the press photos.
Hope you liked these first mediocre live impressions.
Cheers
Henrik
Thank you for your report!!
“My opinion only” too busy dial, the sub dials should of been somehow lighter not to look too busy.
The numerals I love the colors but I’m not the biggest fan of this don’t, especially for Breguet which should of been Breguet numerals.
Thanks for the pics
I like the civilian version.gonna try this when available in my ad
The new movement is a huge story which has attracted less attention than it should, I think.
It is. It would have not been appropriate to remove the stickers on a brand new watch waiting for a customer, that’s why I was not able to show it in detail.
Oh, I meant no critique of you! Just commenting on the watch.
I'm glad you posted and the pictures are very welcome. I should have said that in my post, my apologies!
No need to apologize! I would have wished to get closer to the movement, fortunately Breguet tells us a lot about it.
Thanks for the photos. I look forward to seeing these in the metal
Breguet did a fine job on these these models, targeting the anticipated market tastes. It is a bit disappointing, after the enthusiastic reception for the two Only Watch re-issues. Comparing live shots to live shots, the dials of the new line seem just a bit off. The designers and management would be well aware of what these new watches are and aren't.
The existence of the Air Command from sister brand Blancpain may be a factor here too, being 42.5 mm and free of a date window.
The 39 mm Type XX might still be in the pipeline, as the new movement looks to be about the right size.
These live photos just confirm my initial reaction: a terrible date execution ruins the whole
Thank you, Henrik!
The case is beautiful!
I’m sure down the road we’ll get an Aeronavale version without the date, so there will be something for everybody. Maybe they are saving those versions for limited editions, much like Blancpain does for the 40mm Fifty Fathoms?
Either way, this first launch is promising, and I look forward to seeing it evolve.
Thanks for sharing,
Alex
I’m sure down the road we’ll get an Aeronavale version without the date, so there will be something for everybody. Maybe they are saving those versions for limited editions, much like Blancpain does for the 40mm Fifty Fathoms?
Either way, this first launch is promising, and I look forward to seeing it evolve.
Thanks for sharing,
Alex
Thank you very much for the excellent post, OP. Sadly, watches still terrible. (Is Breguet going into collaboration with Breitling, perhaps?)
two of the greatest sins in watch design: oversized case and 4:30 date window
plus the hands on the civilian version look bad
it's a shame because the military version had potential
No offense Henrik…
But I really don’t like these watches. They look nothing like the vintage which we all love. They are oversized, way too thick, and the date window is just nuts, not to mention the ugly green lume.
I just don’t get these brands under Swatch/Richemont. If they paid more attention to the details, learn to appreciate the nuances of the vintages and understand the preferences of collectors, we probably would see these great houses thrive well into the 21st century. Their mistakes are also probably the reason why we see so many independent watchmakers today.
Breguet is a great name, was a great brand but no longer what it stands for.
Best
Gatsby
I just don’t get these brands under Swatch/Richemont. If they paid more attention to the details, learn to appreciate the nuances of the vintages and understand the preferences of collectors, we probably would see these great houses thrive well into the 21st century. Their mistakes are also probably the reason why we see so many independent watchmakers today.
Breguet is a great name, was a great brand but no longer what it stands for.
Best
Gatsby
I know
Which is why I tend to collect “backwards” these days. Might discover a gold nugget or two.
Best
Gatsby
Best
Gatsby
I have no problem with the automatic movement. I would have preferred manual, but not a big deal. The case? Ok, a tad too big for my taste, but why not.
The bezels? Here they are the stronger part of this watch.
No problem with the hands, for me.
The dial? Without this damn date, it would have been much better. What is the idea, here? Going for a modern vision of the Type XX? Then choose another dial and another case. The 3800 took this direction, these two have the ass seat between two chairs.
These two new ones are a contradiction, a big and bugging one. Retro? Show me one vintage with a date, please.
Modern? Ok but why paying such a close homage to the original. And please, why not one without a date???
It could have been a great re edition, it is just a missed opportunity. And at what price!!!
Best,
Nicolas
Thank you for the pictures. A missed opportunity by the manufacturer as most have said. I welcome the date. I like the two register version more, but the crystal is a shame. Hopefully we will see another version soon!
I saw them yesterday in NYC.
The military was starting to impress me the more I handled it.
I would pass on both - awful date window addition!
I believe that Breguet for their price range need to offer personalised watches similar to car dealerships where you can choose which features you would like i.e. date window or not, hands, lume, case size etc... or at the very least offer models that just emulate the original for the purists amongst us.
Longines have 'nailed it' with their homage WWII RAF 6b/159 pilot watch, no date or unnecessary extras.
2021 Longines Military (Homage to WWII RAF 6b/159 pilot watches)
Supporting some of the less-than-complimentary reports
On the style and execution of the Type XX dial, both versions are currently being offered at 10% discount to listed price at one major online seller….less than 2 months after the June 6 reveal. This is compared to the customary “we hope to obtain one first for our valued customer base over the next 3-5 months”…. of course at listed price or premium due such extensive demand.
