Horological Meandering

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The watches you shouldn't have missed at SalonQP 2016: 30 brands - 45 pictures!

There is something magic in London's atmosphere in November. I don't know, maybe the explanations can be found in the first Christmas ornaments, the poppies on the jackets but I always love to be in London during this period. Even the weather seems sunny or at least less cloudy!  Obviously, the aim of my stay during these last days was not to do window shopping but to actively attend the SalonQP. The SalonQP has become for several years the best Salon dedicated to the final customers at least in Europe. And this success is due to the perfect organization which took the right decisions in order that the event would always remain on the move. Never stand still as we say at Lange. The same can be said about the SalonQP.

This year, the exhibitors set was a bit different from the previous years with more independant brands and less big brands. But anyway, the chemistry worked again and I could appreciate to be able to test the latest novelties from large players like Montblanc and Chopard and a few minutes later to discover the first piece from a totally unknown British brand. This is the great asset of the SalonQP: there are surprises on every corner... with several international product launches or the unveiling of pieces especially dedicated to the British market.

I propose you to discover the most important pieces of the SalonQP... at least for me! The selection is very large (30 brands) since the density was high. Some are true stars of the show, others are just curiosities but who cares? The salient point is that at one moment they caught my attention!

Ready to enter the Saatchi Gallery?



1) Armin Strom

Armin Strom unveiled the Mirrored Force Resonance which features a double-balance escapement. The animations on the dial are impressive and we can spend hours watching the very strangely shaped spring which connects the two balance wheels. The stud holders move and it is really impressive to observe these kinematics. Of course, this watch requires a large presentation and review but it is for me the talking piece Armin Strom was lacking to become more visible.




2) Moritz Grossmann

The German Brand presented a new version with blue details of its Atum Pure M:



3) Urban Jürgensen

As you know, the  design of Urban Jürgensen cases has been  changing and you can feel it on the picture below with the shapes of the lugs.

The Perpetual Calendar is one of my favorite watches from the brand:



And I believe that the reference 2340 could be a masterpiece... without the date window!



4) Urwerk

The UR-105TA Raging Gold has a very appropriate name! I love the work on the case. The red gold guilloché bezel enhances the case design and never looks too ostentatious.



5) Kari Voutilainen

Kari Voutilainen offered us a spectacular range of dial colors.From a quite sober approach to a more sportive and casual one. I have the feeling that Kari is more and more excited by daring projects requested by his clients than by the classic requests. I can understand him! With such finishes, even the craziest dials look marvelous and easy to wear.







6) Chopard

We travel a lot thanks to Chopard this year. GMT and Worldtimer watches were introduced a few weeks ago in the LUC collection.  The LUC One GMT in rose gold was unveiled during the SalonQP:



But I couldn't miss the opportunity to handle the pink gold version of the LUC Time Traveler One. A bright watch!



7) Akrivia

Akrivia is now one of the regular exhibitors of the Salon and the beauty of their tourbillons is always a pleasure for the visitors. The dial of this Tourbillon Chiming Jumping Hour is gorgeous:



8) Montblanc

Montblanc was the largest exhibitor of the SalonQP offering to the visitors a wide selection of the collection including the most complicated watches. The Montblanc area  also included a photo booth and a workbench on which a watchmaker was assembling several movements like the Tourbillon with micro-rotor or a Villeret chronograph.

The Villeret Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique 110 years featuring a peripheral snake is of course... a bit excessive! But it is the reason why it is fascinating.



The Orbis Terrarum Special Edition Great Britain was presented to the visitors who could notice (and appreciate I believe) that the UK Empire rules half the world!



The ExoTourbillon Slim 110 years Edition North America:



The Villeret ExoTourbillon Rattrapante and its typical bridge shape:



Ready to follow the Star with the Héritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph? The dial is amazing.



The ExoTourbillon Slim 110 years looks very quiet after all these exuberant pieces!



9) Bovet

Of course, the Bovet Recital 18 The Shooting Star was one of the highlights of the show! I have seen it several times and its power of seduction stays the same.



10) De Witt

De Witt had a large booth at the Salon. I could enjoy one of the latest pieces, the Academia Squelette and its original dial lay-out.



11) Garrick

The British brand Garrick launched the Portsmouth which movement was designed by Simon Michlmayr and Andreas Strehler. A quantum leap for the brand when we compare this watch with the previous ones.




12) Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son is one of the most creative brands of the last years in both technical and aesthetical fields.

I love the blue dial of the Dial Side True Beat!



But the most successful piece for me is the Nebula. The movement was designed to be efficient... and beautiful. Look at these mirroring effects! And with these darker finishes, the watch is even more attractive.



13) 4N

François Quentin from 4N displayed the sapphire version of his watch. The ballet of the figures is mesmerizing and I like to wait the end of the minutes just to see them moving!



14) Roger Smith

Roger Smith was not exhibiting but one of his pieces was visible thanks to The Watch Club. This Great Britain Piece Unique was commissioned by the Government as a proof of excellence of the British craftsmanship. Look at the subtle integration of the unionjack into the dial. A masterpiece.



15) Moser

Moser presented a world premiere, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Purple with a skeleton movement.



And the Swiss Alp gets this lovely blue dial!



16) Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux was one of the main exhibitors. The great surprise for me was to be able to wear this Place Girardet which is a very special one! The number one of the 225 pieces, the watch which symbolizes the year 1791, the GP foundation! Lucky me!



The Chrono Circuito is a very appealing watch and this honeycomb dial works very well in this "motor race" atmosphere.



The 1966 Skeleton is a gorgeous watch, I already mentioned it several times and I do it again today!



17) Andersen Geneve

Andersen Geneve offered to the visitors an European  debut with the Perpetual Secular Calender 20th anniversary with blue gold dial. A gorgeous perpetual calendar piece which doesn't require any setting during at least 400 years.



The Worldtimer was slightly redesigned with a nicer font and more visible hands.



18) Romain Gauthier

When the Prestige HMS gets a titanium case, the outcome is surprising, more casual and very seducing.



19) Nomos

Nomos presented the new Neomatik with Nachtblau dials. My fav of this collection is the Tangente as pictured below:



20) Manufacture Royale

The 1770 Micromegas Revolution is a fantastic piece which goes even beyond the limits of the Micromegas. The very open view on the two Tourbillons allows to fully enjoy their own (and very different) behaviours. The contrast between their speeds offers an unique show.



21) JR Bespoke Timepieces

Justin Richardson loves old cars and he finds in them his inspiration for this octogonal dial shape.



22) Atelier de Chronométrie

Barcelona based Atelier de Chronométrie presented its full collection. Collection is a big word since each piece is made by hand.

This is the AdC n°3 inspired from the watches of the 30s:



The AdC n°2 features a central second hand:



23) Dennison

Dennison was a famous case maker. The Dennison revival watches are inspired by the Dennison Aquatite cased expeditionary watches from the 1950s. The case diameter is 38mm and the watch is powered by an ETA 2824-2.



24) F.P. Journe

It was a kind of surprise for me but F.P. Journe booth was one of the largest of the Salon! The proof of the interest in the British market from the brand. And when you have the ability to put on your wrist the Sonnerie Souveraine, you are close to Nirvana!



25) Christiaan Van Der Klaauw

The skills of CVDK on astronomical complications are always highlighted by the superb dials. Can you imagine that you have the smallest Planetarium on your wrist? The complication may be very slow... obviously... but the feeling to have several planets on the wrist is unique!



26) MB&F

The HM8 was one of the highlights from MB&F, 8 like 5 + 3! The visitors could understand why this piece is considered as an evolution and a combinaison of two previous Horological Machine.



27) Loomes

The SalonQP is the perfect location for such event: the unveiling of a 100% British watch, from the strap to the movement. If you remember well, Robert Loomes introduced several years ago the Robin watch which was powered by a Smiths movement. Now the Loomes Original uses a movement which was specifically designed for it. Another proof of the vitality of the British watchmaking world.



28) Laurent Ferrier

Laurent Ferrier presented this version of the Traveller Night Blue with blue details.



29) Lange & Söhne

Lange & Söhne is a faithful brand to the SalonQP even if it hasn't been present every year. The focus was made on the engravings with the presence of a Master Engraver. It was an excellent idea, warmly welcomed by the visitors.



30) Dietrich

Emmanuel Dietrich presented several colors variations but this version of the OT-3 was considered as the most successful.




Can you understand now why the SalonQP is an event which shall not be missed if you live close to London? Far from the crazy business athmosphere of the SIHH or of Baselworld, it is for me the best way to end the horological year and to prepare the next one!

Thanks a lot to the organization team for this perfect show during 3 days.

Fr.Xavier

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