Patek 3417 Amagnetic First Series
I have been constantly looking for a watch that I can wear it almost everyday in different occasions which also demonstrate my sensibility. I had tried Patek 570, 565 and 3417. In the end, though I truly love all 3, 3417 Amagenetic suits me a bit more. The bauhaus design on the lugs and the dial design draw me in and it still remains very subtle as a timepiece.
What I have here is a 3417 First Series. What is a First Series?
1) 3417 First series was from 1958 to end 1959.
2) The movement is Cal 12-400. From 1960 onwards the watch uses 24-400 AM till 1970.
3) First series case side has no thin groove line. It is continuous flushed.
4) Very importantly, First Series has engraved, raised enamel signature. The word Amagentic begins below the word ‘GENEVE’, not from the side of ‘G’. Some 3417 ( 570 too) have enamel writing on top of the dial but they are not the same as engraved, raised enamel filled signature.
5) It has big sub second dial.
6) The inner case has 7 digit case number engraved.
7) First series only have two kind of dials. Both have engraved, raised enamel filled signature but the earliest one has a missing 30th minute line. The one with missing 30th minute line is called Type 0-A dial while the other one with 30th minute line is called Type 0-B dial.
At current moment, I was told that only 6 First series 3417 with Type 0 dials are documented. Personally, my limited research had only found 5. So, it is extremely rare to have a 3417 with Type 0 dial, which is characterized by its engraved, raised enamel filled signature.
I got all these info from Wulf at Rare & Fine Vintage Watches and John from Onbehalf. Both are extremely honest, patient and knowledgeable vintage watch dealers. I find that there are so many misinformations out there with vintage pieces and there are many dealers that have no idea what’s going on or are simply lying. I am very glad to have known Wulf and John, who I know I can trust them completely with Vintage pieces. I have learnt so much from both gentlemen and also, it helps tremendously to have Julian (watch-guy) guide me along patiently. Thank you Julian 
. I would also like to thanks Nico for always mentioning that he likes 3417, which kind of capture my attention to it. Thank you Nico
. I would also like to thanks Nico for always mentioning that he likes 3417, which kind of capture my attention to it. Thank you Nico How does 3417 wear on the wrist? I have a 6.5 inches wrist. 3417 is 35mm but it wears like a 37mm due to the wide dial, small bezel and long lugs. It fits perfectly to my wrist. Compartively, it feels a bit bigger than Patek 565 and quite similar to 570.
Do I love this watch? I think it really suit me very well. 3417 can be a very poetic daily companion . Yes, I love 3417.
. Yes, I love 3417. Lastly, special thanks to Marco and Wulf for writing such insightful book focusing on Patek Amagenetic 3417 and 2570. It is a great read and I'm happy to know that the cover photo is my exact watch . Thank you !!!
. Thank you !!!
You just got a top watch.
I have its cousin...
And still running after this Patek!
Best,
Nicolas
I think they are from the same era?
Mine is from 1959, yours earlier? Geophysic E168 is a more masculine piece than 3417. Very nice legendary piece from JLC and I believe it is also 35mm? I must try it one day on my wrist.
Thanks for a really informative post on this superb vintage reference! The pleasure of acquiring such a special piece after that thorough a research must be remarkable...Congrats!🥂[nt]
No message body
Thank you...
the journey is made a lot easier when there's fellow purists to consult with and trustworthy dealers like Wulf and John N. I figured I will just share the information on this post so for those future people who become interested in this model will have something factual to base on. This is the wonderful part of this site.
Pateks from this era have a lot of style. This one look great on your wrist. [nt]
No message body
Thanks :-)
I like watches that are 38mm and below, so it is really interesting to seek out pieces from the past. After 17 years of dabbling with modern watches, this discovery into vintage pieces are exciting. It also make me realise how creative people in the past were.
That Amagnetic script is just something else, adding just the right amount of flourish to an otherwise sober dial. Also love the color and texture of that dial. Lots of elements to love on what seems like a "simple" 3 hander (nt)
..
It is a very lively dial...
in a very subtle package . I do think the 3D raised enamel signature helps a lot.
. I do think the 3D raised enamel signature helps a lot.
Mega congrats 🎉🎉🎉
and thanks for sharing such a great article.
your 2nd pic is absolutely stunning!
cheers
Well done on this very fine purchase
Lots of homework and research is necessary
I agree m stanga book is essential as is chatting to multiple collectors
A stunning addition
Well done
I agree m stanga book is essential as is chatting to multiple collectors
A stunning addition
Well done
Thank you Julian...
You know this can't be done without your advice over the years about vintage pieces and trustworthy dealers. Thank you again my friend
Very beautiful watch, many congratulations!!!
I understand from 1960 until discontinuation Cal. 27 AM 400 was used not 24-400 AM.
I have also read the SWISS mark on the dial is absent in the first series and the SWISS mark rarely appears on the dial from 1961 onwards.
Yes, 27-400 AM
That was what I meant to type :P
The SWISS mark are rarely found on type 1B dial but very commonly found on Type 2 and 3. So in short, most dials have SWISS mark.
The SWISS mark are rarely found on type 1B dial but very commonly found on Type 2 and 3. So in short, most dials have SWISS mark.
Thanks for this very informative post about a legendary watch
Huge congrats to you, it seems you found a superb specimen 👍👏👏
I absolutely love 3417 also like many of us here, you are lucky to have found one in this condition. You will enjoy it immensely for sure, wear it in the best of your health !
Thanks Mike.
I was hunting for a 3448 and almost got one but the dealer was asking a bit too much and refuse to budge. It is still not sold 4 months later. Then I realise i may want something simpler for everyday and so the hunt for the Calatrava series. I would be happy with either a Stainless Steel 565 SC, Stainless Steel 570 or a 3417. A very good friend really want my 565 and encouraged me to go for this 3417... so now we have both
2nd series movement should be 27-400AM...
starting from 1960. Typo error on original article.
Thank you... I'm happy to join the club :-)
I note that yo uhave a beautiful 3417 too. I'm curious if you did buy the book too. It is very well written and detailed.
Thank you.
Yes, I have the original guide from Marco and the new book by Marco and Wulf. The book is fantastic! Mine is from 1964. The 3417 is my favorite steel reference from that era. Enjoy that special watch!!
Thanks Quan...
I'm new to the vintage world. It took me quite a while to feel truly at ease. Now, I really appreciate the Vintage offering a lot.
Thanks for sharing.
Do you know more about your watch dial or do you have photos of the side case? !2-400 movement is first series and usually have big sub second. Yours is small sub second.
Is the signature enamel engraved? The writing of the word 'Amagnetic' is very different from others too. Very interesting.
Is the signature enamel engraved? The writing of the word 'Amagnetic' is very different from others too. Very interesting.
Yes and you can see the difference between the two.
Just look at the Amagnetic wording, the sub dial and the rails. First series dial are supposed to have enamel writing and the Amagnetic wordings are meant to be lower thean the 'Geneva'. So, even the second one you post has the wrong dial too. It is the dial of series 2. I have seen another one that's transitional , which is very nice. It is first series but has big sub too. The only difference is the signature is printed but the Amagnetic wording is placed the same as First series.
If I based on Marco's book,
The second image you posted has a type 2A dial with no swiss wording. it is one with small sub second hand. Such dial only appears from 1963 to 1970. 12-400 movement exists from 1958-1960. As for the first one you post, it is likely to be a re-dial as the wording is wrong and the dial is a dial 2B, also after 1963.
I am putting these details here so we all can learn and discuss. Hope you understand. A lot of dealers have been selling vintage watches without doing much research.
I am putting these details here so we all can learn and discuss. Hope you understand. A lot of dealers have been selling vintage watches without doing much research.
